Ripley Castle &
Ripon Cathedral
Saturday 27th March 2004
REPORT by SUE HURD
PHOTO's © HUMUS
It was on a cloudy but fine day of 27th March 2004 that Dougal, Humus, Pam, Sue Hurd and Valerie met up at 10.40 am (due to Sue being late) to enjoy the sights of Ripley and Ripon.
First up was RIPLEY CASTLE which was undergoing work on the East Wing and Courtyard. On the far side of the courtyard was a large fan trained tree against the wall which Humus expertly identified (or read the label). Turning to the gift shop building Dougal commented on a large wind indicator which appeared to be in good working order. Then turning back to the wall of the gatehouse can be seen many holes made by musket balls from the English Civil War, some wildly too high to have injured anyone yet a lot around the same level which all remarked were around the height of Sue (which obviously proves the people were small at that time).
A guided tour of Ripley Castle began at 11.00 am and we entered the hall way which
| divides the medieval castle from the 18th century extension. Ripley Castle was acquired by the Ingilby family through marriage around 1308/9. Here was a painting of the first castle to be built and a magnificent painted glass window commemorating the marriages of the Ingilby family through coats of arms which included a certain Robert Shaftoe (aka Bobby). This had miraculously survived a severe hail storm some years ago thanks to chicken wire. At the far end of the hall was a large painting of an unfortunate lady whose two children died of meningitis, her husband due to grief shot himself in the head and died. Opposite this painting were pictures of the present family to occupy the house of which there are five children. We were then lead through a cunningly concealed door to the Dining Room. |
| Dougal and the Concealed Door |
On either side of the door were two portraits of the current occupier’s father and grandfather (the latter being the elder of twins). All round the room were Victorian porcelain which had been stored away when Queen Victoria came to stay in case they went away with her too. In the centre of the dining table’s ceiling was a large chandelier which was not only beautiful but informed everyone when the private rooms of the family were being used. Next was the Round Drawing Room which had views of the lake and portraits of the two children who died from meningitis and possibly some Chippendale furniture. In the large Drawing Room the main focal point was the ceiling which was embellished with images of the owner who had commissioned the new version of the castle along with his wife, before going bankrupt and fleeing the country leaving their children behind. It was funny that all the male portraits in this room had the same name!
Leaving the Georgian wing behind we entered the Library where “Trooper Jane Ingilby” kept Oliver Cromwell over night talking while the men of the household who had sided with the Royalists fled. In the morning those who had been captured were executed against the Gatehouse wall (see top of report). Also here was a 17th century recipe book by Elizabeth Eden which contains a recipe for beer still made today. Pam, being the only one who has tasted this brew, informed us that it is very nice.
Upstairs and past the painted glass window is the Tower Room where James I of England (and VI of Scotland) was entertained by the family on his way to be crowned king of England. Also in the room is a portrait of a lady of the family who had 18 children - later in the tour we see a portrait of her sister who became a nun (wonder why?!). Finally we go up the original windy and very steep yet narrow staircase to the Knights Chamber. There are too many artefacts in this room to mention all - the most impressive being the very small priesthole used by “the Blessed Francis Ingilby” which was discovered in 1964. The room is dominated by armour including some gun holders which could be mistaken for small false limbs, and wooden guns used by the Home Guard in WWII. There is also an armoured chest with an array of locks to it - we all wondered how they managed to get it up there. And then we were back outside.
Dougal and Humus went to look at the waterfall, lake and part of the deer park while the rest of us wondered around the outside of the building. Then it was off for lunch at the tearoom in which we were honourably served by the 2nd in line to the castle - none other than Master Ingilby.
| Stopping off at All Saints church, which moved to its present site circa 1395, and the weeping cross. We were greeted by a welcomer who expertly explained the prominent tombs and phases to the church building. Leaving the church and castle behind we walked through the village where in 1825 Sir William Amcotts Ingilby removed all the thatched houses and rebuilt the village in a French style (although where in France is a mystery) and put at its centre the Hotel de Ville. Arriving back at the car park we said au revoir to Pam and soon gave a bonjour to Ripon. |
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| The Boar - prominent throughout the Ingilby estate |
RIPON CATHEDRAL is on the site of St Wilfrid’s church, named after the founder and second Abbot of the Bendictine monastry of which the crypt is the surviving remnant. On entering the cathedral and standing in the Nave towards the altar we noted the lop sided columns and both the rounded and pointed arches. This was due to an earthquake in 1450 when much of the Nave had to be rebuilt. Turning back to the entrance you can then appreciate the early lancet windows from 1220. Walking up the aisle we came to the pulpit dating to 1913 which was a bit overlooked by us with talks of Florence. Entering the crossing you get a better impression of the work carried out after the earthquake and how one side of the Nave had to be literally held up more than the other.
The medieval screen commemorates many of the important figures in the history of the Cathedral including Archbishop Thurstan (founder of Fountains Abbey), King Athelstan (established the Liberty of Ripon in 926) and Archbishop Langley (first bishop of Ripon). It was very colourful and had almost lifelike features.
Heading towards the High Altar we admired the craftsmanship of the choir stalls completed in 1494. Valerie was the first to locate the end seat nearest the Treasury and altar with its depiction of a griffin chasing a rabbit. This is believed to have inspired Lewis Carroll for Alice in Wonderland, his father being Canon from 1852-1868. The Treasury contains diocesan silver, the saxon Ripon Jewel as well as the charter of 1604 re-establishing the Cathedral - all well worth seeing though you do have to pay to get in (or do you?). On the other side of the Altar to the Treasury is the Chapel of the Holy Spirit with its very modern looking yet beautiful metalwork screen - we were surprised to find it was made by Leslie Durbin (the maker of a ceremonial sword presented by Churchill to Stalin).
Close to the medieval screen was some stairs which led to a library. This was obviously the most recent addition to the Cathedral. Dougal and Valerie both noticed the gargoyles on the now interior wall! We left the Crypt to last and to say it was small is an understatement. St Wilfrid used this to keep relics in which he had brought back from Rome and is shaped like Christ’s tomb (supposedly).
After having a laugh at the photos of the new roof we left the Cathedral for a walk around Ripon and the marketplace before settling into a café for a cup of tea and chat about the day. What with Dougal having a laugh with the waitress’s job satisfaction and Humus conversation of drips we all agreed that we had had a wonderful day. Finally we returned to the car park and went our separate ways home.
